EST. 1837
Our Mill
We are proud to be one of the rare remaining vertical woollen mills within the UK, giving us a unique advantage to manage all fabric manufacturing procedures from a singular site. From the moment raw wool enters our mill, to the yarn production, the weaving, scouring, and finishing – we oversee each process to exacting standards.
RAW WOOL
Raw wool is delivered to our mill in Guiseley, Leeds. Our Merino wool predominantly hails from South Africa, and our Shetland-quality wool is from New Zealand—in addition to our supply of quality British Wool.
The quality of each and every one of our fabrics starts on the farm, and as such, we ensure that all wool from our long-standing suppliers are from reputable farmers. Bales of wool are collated into our dedicated wool warehouse until they are ready for the first step, which is to prepare and weave into any one of our beautiful fabric designs.
RAW WOOL
Raw wool is delivered to our mill in Guiseley, Leeds. Our Merino wool predominantly hails from South Africa, and our Shetland-quality wool is from New Zealand—in addition to our supply of quality British Wool.
The quality of each and every one of our fabrics starts on the farm, and as such, we ensure that all wool from our long-standing suppliers are from reputable farmers. Bales of wool are collated into our dedicated wool warehouse until they are ready for the first step, which is to prepare and weave into any one of our beautiful fabric designs.
DYE HOUSE
The raw wool then goes to the Dye House, where it is dyed using precise combinations of dye, pressure, temperature, and time. These combinations are kept a close secret to ensure that our unique colour palette remains ours alone.
We can currently dye our wool in over 500 different shades and colours. Within the Dye House, we keep a library of shade standards and recipes to ensure continuity in each colour year after year. This is a highly skilled process essential to creating beautiful yarns.
DYE HOUSE
The raw wool then goes to the Dye House, where it is dyed using precise combinations of dye, pressure, temperature, and time. These combinations are kept a close secret to ensure that our unique colour palette remains ours alone.
We can currently dye our wool in over 500 different shades and colours. Within the Dye House, we keep a library of shade standards and recipes to ensure continuity in each colour year after year. This is a highly skilled process essential to creating beautiful yarns.
BLENDING
The secret to creating our beautifully rich colour is in the blend. Up to 7 different coloured wools can be used in the recipe for each yarn to create the finished colour. This is what gives Tweeds, Heathers, and Plaids their uniquely rich texture.
Having yarns made up of many different component shades gives us a great advantage when it comes to the final look and appeal of our fabrics—offering textiles with such appealing character. For example, if a check design includes five different colours, and each colour has seven different shades in the yarn, the eye is picking up 35 different colours in the finished pattern.
BLENDING
The secret to creating our beautifully rich colour is in the blend. Up to 7 different coloured wools can be used in the recipe for each yarn to create the finished colour. This is what gives Tweeds, Heathers, and Plaids their uniquely rich texture.
Having yarns made up of many different component shades gives us a great advantage when it comes to the final look and appeal of our fabrics—offering textiles with such appealing character. For example, if a check design includes five different colours, and each colour has seven different shades in the yarn, the eye is picking up 35 different colours in the finished pattern.
CARDING
Essential in producing soft, smooth fabrics, blended wool, lubricated with a little water and oil, is run through a series of combed rollers that tease the fibres one way and then the other.
This process rids the wool of any last impurities, ensuring the finished fabrics are smooth and soft to the touch. Carding also helps with alignment and uniformity. At the end of the process, the combed and teased fibres are wound onto a spool, ready to be placed into the spinning machine.
CARDING
Essential in producing soft, smooth fabrics, blended wool, lubricated with a little water and oil, is run through a series of combed rollers that tease the fibres one way and then the other.
This process rids the wool of any last impurities, ensuring the finished fabrics are smooth and soft to the touch. Carding also helps with alignment and uniformity. At the end of the process, the combed and teased fibres are wound onto a spool, ready to be placed into the spinning machine.
SPINNING YARN
The rich web of coloured wool is then spun into a wide range of amazing yarns. Our six frames draw out the wool and apply a precise number of twists per inch, resulting in a fine but strong thread ideal for fabrics used in furnishings, accessories and clothing.
The yarn is then wound onto cones, going through a check to ensure continuity of thickness of the yarn. Any faults are cut out of the thread, and the ends are thermally joined together (not knotted as in days gone by), leaving a yarn that will weave into smooth fabrics. The cones, holding up to 16,000m of yarn are then ready to be sent to warping and weaving.
SPINNING YARN
The rich web of coloured wool is then spun into a wide range of amazing yarns. Our six frames draw out the wool and apply a precise number of twists per inch, resulting in a fine but strong thread ideal for fabrics used in furnishings, accessories and clothing.
The yarn is then wound onto cones, going through a check to ensure continuity of thickness of the yarn. Any faults are cut out of the thread, and the ends are thermally joined together (not knotted as in days gone by), leaving a yarn that will weave into smooth fabrics. The cones, holding up to 16,000m of yarn are then ready to be sent to warping and weaving.
WARPING
The cones of yarn are wound over a drum (known as a swift or mill), and a warp (lengthwise threads) is made for weaving. This can be a complicated process, depending on the intricacy of the pattern in the finished fabric.
Precise lengths of different-coloured yarn may be required in a single vertical thread, and up to 2000 threads may be required for a width of fabric. These are checked by hand and must all be held in exact order to ensure accurate and uniform patterns and designs.
WARPING
The cones of yarn are wound over a drum (known as a swift or mill), and a warp (lengthwise threads) is made for weaving. This can be a complicated process, depending on the intricacy of the pattern in the finished fabric.
Precise lengths of different-coloured yarn may be required in a single vertical thread, and up to 2000 threads may be required for a width of fabric. These are checked by hand and must all be held in exact order to ensure accurate and uniform patterns and designs.
WEAVING
This is where many different yarns are woven together in intricate weaves to create our stunning fabrics. Our mill uses automatic Rapier looms to take the weft (horizontal thread) across the warp threads, capable of weaving 30,000m of cloth per week.
After the fabric is woven, each piece begins our strict quality control process. We inspect every inch of fabric at three stages in the manufacturing process – when it comes off the loom, after finishing and again before it leaves the factory – ensuring our trademark consistency in quality.
WEAVING
This is where many different yarns are woven together in intricate weaves to create our stunning fabrics. Our mill uses automatic Rapier looms to take the weft (horizontal thread) across the warp threads, capable of weaving 30,000m of cloth per week.
After the fabric is woven, each piece begins our strict quality control process. We inspect every inch of fabric at three stages in the manufacturing process – when it comes off the loom, after finishing and again before it leaves the factory – ensuring our trademark consistency in quality.
SCOURING, MILLING, & FINISHING
After weaving, the fabric is scoured (washed) using pure water pumped from boreholes 800ft below the mill and then milled and dried. The oils used to aid the fabric’s manufacture are removed, and fire retardants and water-resistance treatments can be padded onto the fabric. This is when the luxurious feel (or ‘handle’) starts to become apparent within the fabric.
The final step in the process is finishing. Each length of fabric is carefully pressed using steam and specialised equipment to remove any shrinkage, thus completing the creation of the fabric.
SCOURING, MILLING, & FINISHING
After weaving the fabric is scoured (washed) using pure water pumped from boreholes 800ft below Guiseley, and then milled and dried. The oils that were used to aid manufacture of the fabric are removed and fire retardants and water resist treatments can be padded onto the fabric. This is when the wonderful and luxurious feel (or ‘handle’) starts to become apparent.
The final step in the process is finishing. Each length of fabric is carefully pressed using steam and specialised equipment used to remove any shrinkage, thus completing the creation of the fabric.
